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- Tasman Glacier Grand Expedition
Tasman Glacier Grand Expedition |Summer 2012/13
The Tasman Glacier Grand Expedition is a 12-day guided climbing trip through some of the most spectacular scenery of the Southern Alps.
The Tasman is New Zealand longest glacier. From its nevé at 2,600 metres it carves a huge valley - 29 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide, approximately north to south. The glacier’s eastern and western sides are flanked by towering peaks: the Main Divide on the west, and the Malte Brun and Liebig Ranges to the east.
With relatively easy access by air to one of the high huts, traveling out down the Tasman Valley covers a vast amount of terrain. It offers the experienced mountaineer an array of challenging peaks, and snow, ice, mixed, and alpine rock routes.
Flexible format, with a focus on climbing
The focus of the trip is climbing, and traveling to new venues over a period of 12-days. This allows you to move from hut to bivvy site down the catchment of the glacier, tackling various peaks as weather, conditions and your experience allow.
The path to go higher
Many climbers who have achieved notable Himalayan ascents have made their start with an Alpine Guides trip. Our experience and the serious nature of the region provide the best possible platform to “go higher”. This expedition is designed specifically for those with 7,000 & 8,000 metre ambitions.
The Grand Expedition advantages
- Low guide:participant ratio allows for more challenging objectives and big peaks
- Open schedules - we can arrange your guide to work around your travel plans
- Flexible objectives – keep your options open
- Tap your expert guide’s local knowledge
Experience Required
The Expedition is for experienced mountaineers. The basic level of ability required is equivalent to having completed a Technical Mountaineering Course (TMC), or similar.
A very high level of fitness and experience with bivvying/snow camping is preferred. The focus of this trip is climbing, but where required instruction will be given to ensure your safety on the mountain.
Prices and Inclusions
Prices valid to 30 April 2013
- One person rate: NZ $8,200
- 2 person rate: NZ$4,700 per person
Cost includes:
- 12 days guiding
- All meals including snacks and energy bars ›
- Hut fees and local accommodation ›
- Local road transport (as required) ›
- Cost of air access
- Free use of a range of technical equipment ›
Alpine Guides will supply all bivouac cooking gear, including stoves, fuel, plates and utensils. A few dehydrated meals may be included in the food supply to cut down on weight.
Not Included
Cost of flight out of mountains. The Expedition is designed for walking out. See Aircraft Access and Egress for more details.
Climbing Season: November- April
Climbing conditions will change as the summer progresses, as will access on to some peaks, by some routes.
It is possible to start in October, but potential deep snow, and avalanche risk may make some routes untenable. If you wish to start the Expedition in spring we recommended having ski touring ability, or to be happy using snowshoes.
As summer progresses (from mid-December) the area’s great alpine rock summits (like Malte Brun, Aiguilles Rouge, and Chudleigh) come into condition. Read about Weather & Snow Conditions, Summer and Winter ›
Booking for the Expedition
We will provide a guide to work around your travel plans (subject to availability). The first step is to contact us with your proposed dates ›
We do not have guides standing by waiting for work. “Walk-in” and short-notice enquiries generally cannot be filled. We recommend making reservations well in advance for the Grand Expedition.
For our most popular period (December through February) at least 2 months advance booking is recommended.
Reporting Details
Unless otherwise arranged, the Expedition will start at 08:30 at Alpine Guides office in Mount Cook Village, and finish at 17:00 on the last day of your program.
A morning start makes most effective use of time, allowing you to fly into the mountains by lunch time. Alternatively you can start at 13:30, and finish at 12:00 noon on the last day, to better fit in with public bus services ›
If you take the later start option it is less likely that you will be able to fly into the mountains on the first day. Ensure you choose the right start time on your booking form.
If you arrive in Aoraki/Mount Cook on the day before your trip begins, your guide will probably not be available. Our office staff will be happy to answer any questions you have. Your guide will look after equipment rental, and other gear requirements at the start of your trip. This takes on average 2 hours.
More information about transport to Mount Cook ›
Mountain Huts
There are two mountain huts at the head of the Tasman Glacier that may be used during this trip when not camping; Kelman Hut and Tasman Saddle Hut.
Read more about mountain hut living conditions ›
Objectives & Organisation
When dealing with a dynamic environment it is not realistic to plan fixed day-to-day schedules. We take a flexible approach and work around prevailing weather and conditions to get the most from your time available.
At the start of your trip your guide will discuss an outline of the plan, and carry out an equipment check. You then head into the mountains at the first possible opportunity.
The first night of your trip will likely be at Kelman Hut (2,460 metres). From this venue we will begin with a “warm-up” peak before moving on. We aim to have you back in Mount Cook Village by late afternoon on the final day.
From Kelman Hut
- Mount Annan (2,934 metres)
- Mount Abel (2,688 metres)
- Aylmer - Hochstetter Traverse (2,699 - 2,827 metres)
From Tasman Saddle Hut, with possible bivouacs
- Mount Elie de Beaumont (3,109 metres)
- Mount Walter (2,905 metres)
- Mount Green (2,837 metres)
The Malte Brun Range
- Rumdoodle (2,706 metres)
- Malte Brun (3,199 metres)
- Mount Hamilton (3,025 metres)
- Mount Chudleigh (2,966 metres)
- Aiguilles Rouges (2,950 metres)
From De la Beche bivouac
- De la Beche (2,950 metres)
- The Minarets (3,030 metres)
See the Mount Cook Area Map for locations of huts and peaks ›
Reference: for details on routes and technical difficulty see:
"Aoraki/Mount Cook, a Guide for Mountaineers", Alex Palman, New Zealand Alpine Club, 2001 edition.
Aircraft Access & Egress
The cost of air access is built into the price of the Expedition. Where possible we try to combine flights with other climbers to minimise aircraft use and impact on the mountain environment.
Egress from the mountains
The Expedition is designed for walking out. If necessary it is possible to fly out from most locations on the Tasman Glacier if the weather allows.
More details on walking out down the Tasman Glacier ›
The cost of flying out is additional to the fees. You also have to cover the cost of your guide's flight out.
- Range of costs possible: NZ$320 to NZ$950
- Typical average cost: NZ$400 to NZ$520
More on Aircraft Use and Costs ›
Equipment and Clothing | Tasman Glacier Grand Expedition
Download the equipment checklist for the Expedition (.pdf 200 Kb) ›
Please let us know what gear you need to rent - including any equipment supplied free of charge.
Choosing your clothing | Seasonal Variation
Our gear lists cater for all eventualities. Sometimes you may not require everything on the equipment list. Weather and conditions when your trip starts will help determine what is needed.
Temperatures, weather, and snow conditions will vary. The program is designed to work around these changes. Read about Weather & Snow Conditions, Summer and Winter ›
