Summit of Nuns Veil. Photo by Mal Haskins
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Local Heroes | Details for summer 2012/13

Mount Cook Village offers spectacular and challenging summits all within easy walking distance. The Local Heroes package gives time to climb two or more of these peaks - a great way to get a taste of the potential of the Aoraki/Mount Cook area.

Summits include:

Package Highlights

  • No need to travel for hours by car or air
  • No technical climbing experience required – summits can be selected depending on your experience
  • Good for those with limited time
  • Flexible objectives means we can work around weather
  • Price is kept down by staying local, and using a walk in/walk out approach
  • Vertical ascents are long - so a high level of fitness is required

Experience Required

No previous mountaineering experience is required. We will select climbs based on your experience, snow and weather conditions, and time available.

Nuns Veil and The Footstool require previous alpine climbing experience. For less experienced climbers these peaks can only be attempted after a successful training climb on another peak - and subject to your guide’s judgment of your capabilities.

Most of the climbs involve a lot of vertical gain (at least 1,200 metres). A high level of fitness and ability to carry a pack for a long day is required

Any technical instruction required is given in the mountains, or between climbs, back in Mount Cook Village.

Prices and Inclusions | 2012/13

Local Heroes is for either one, or 2 participants per guide. You have a choice of a 5 or 6 day trip.

Participants 5 days 6 days
One NZ$3,650 NZ$4,300
Two NZ$2,175 NZ$2,550

Prices are per-person, in New Zealand Dollars.

The price includes:

Not included

Aircraft access or egress. If required (by agreement) for certain objectives this is an additional cost.

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Booking for Local Heroes

We will provide a guide to work around your travel plans (subject to availability). The first step is to contact us with your proposed dates ›

Please note that we do not have guides standing by waiting for work. “Walk-in” and short-notice enquiries generally cannot be filled. We recommend making reservations well in advance.

Reporting Details

Unless otherwise arranged, Local Heroes will start at 08:30 at Alpine Guides shop in Mount Cook Village, and finish at 17:00 on the last day of your program.

Why a 5-day minimum?

The Southern Alps has a temperate, maritime alpine climate. Booking a guide for only a 2 or 3 day trip runs a high risk of being unsuccessful, due to possible disruption by bad weather. Also, the walk in to your climbing venue may take up to two days... A longer guided trip always offers a better chance of your venture being successful.

A 5-day minimum is a compromise, allowing for changing weather, and giving enough time to attempt one or more of the local peaks. It also lets you move to another venue, if conditions absolutely do not allow for climbing around the local area.

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Trip Structure | Local Heroes

The Local Heroes program will start in Mount Cook Village. Once you meet your guide and discuss objectives equipment and rental gear will be organised.

You must be prepared to head out to your first climbing venue that same day, if conditions allow. Most climbs listed involve a 5 or 10 minute drive to the start of the route.

For climbs that require a bivouac Alpine Guides will supply a tent or bivvy bag, as well as all bivvy equipment (stoves, utensils, etc.). Bringing your own drinking mug is recommended.

Flexibility to move

The Local Heroes format gives flexibility to choose a number of peaks and routes close to Mount Cook Village - there are several more than the main ones listed ›

If weather conditions do not allow climbing in the local area we can relocate to other nearby venues, before returning to Mount Cook Village. For example:

  • Twin Streams (Mount Dark, 2,496 metres & Mount Brown 2,168 metres) - 20 minutes drive,
  • The South Temple or Hopkins Valleys (1.5 hours drive) - offering a number of great alternative climbs.

Footwear for Local Heroes

Local Heroes requires fully-shanked alpine boots. If you do not own appropriate boots we have these available to rent.

Read more about the correct boots for Local Heroes ›

We have a range of crampons, which fit practically all boots. Rock shoes will be provided if required, but bring your own if you own a pair.

Equipment and Clothing | Local Heroes

Download the equipment checklist for the Local Heroes(.pdf 200 Kb) ›

Please let us know what gear you need to rent - including any equipment supplied free of charge.

Choosing your clothing | Seasonal Variation

Our gear lists cater for all eventualities. Sometimes you may not require everything on the equipment list. Weather and conditions when your trip starts will help determine what is needed.

Temperatures, weather, and snow conditions will vary. The program is designed to work around these changes. Read about Weather & Snow Conditions, Summer and Winter ›

Questions about clothing and gear? See the Equipment & Clothing Guide to gear for mountaineering in New Zealand ›

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Your Local Heroes | Peak Options

A list of potential summits follows. Read more about NZ Alpine Climbing Grades ›

Mount Wakefield, 2,058 metres

  • NZ Alpine Grade: 1-
  • Length: 1 long day
  • Total Ascent: approx 1,300 metres
  • Season: November - April

Mount Wakefield sits directly across the valley from Mount Cook Village, from where its massive 700 metre scree fan is a dominant feature of the eastern view. Wakefield makes a great first mountaineering experience for fit people who enjoy scrambling. It is a long day, but the panoramic views are worth the effort.

To help you ‘warm up’ the route is at its steepest right at the start. Beginning under a stand of Mountain Beech, you follow a vague trail through scrub and Hebe. After 30 minutes the gradient relents and the climb becomes more relaxed, opening into grassy meadows of Mount Cook Lilies and Celmissia.

Once on the ridge proper, the views into the Tasman Valley, and down to Mount Cook village are stunning. This is a prime location to see NZ Falcons, while the keen-eyed may spot a mob of Himalayan Thar grazing the slopes.

We continue following the ridge over a couple of rocky outcrops which involve some scrambling. After about 5 hours from the start we reach the last steep scramble (150 metres) to the rocky peak. Crampons and ice axe will be carried, but may not be required in late summer.

The return to the valley floor is by the same route. Your guide may suggest taking the “quick way” down the scree slope! The total time for the trip is around 10 hours depending on fitness and conditions.

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Mount Edgar Thompson, 2,379 metres

  • East Ridge Route, NZ Alpine Grade: 2
  • Length 1 or 2 days
  • Total Ascent: approx 1,600 metres
  • Season: November - April

The summit of Edgar Thompson stands alone in space, providing a fantastic “big-mountain” feel.

The ascent of 1,600 vertical metres to the summit of Mount Edgar Thompson requires a high level of fitness and basic crampon/axe skills. A short vehicle ride sets us at 800 metres elevation, at Hoophorn Stream, and the start of the climb.

The route wanders through scrub and tussock, crossing boulder streams, gaining height quickly. Three hours later you arrive at a saddle (the “Worry Line”) at 1,500 metres, before gaining the East Ridge.

The ridge is a steep, but enjoyable hike, over boulders, scree, and alpine meadow. Kea are common companions, and the odd, elusive Thar or Chamois can make an appearance on a crag above. You climb the ridge for another hour to your bivvy site.

Up before dawn, the ascent continues for another 11/2 hours before gaining the south face - becoming more rocky and involving more scrambling. Crampons and ice axe and good footwork are required for the moderately steep ascent of the South Face. Your guide may decide to pitch here if conditions warrant.

Above the face, the final 100 metres to the summit is an airy ridge walk with the views becoming more spectacular all the way to the top.

The descent back to the road end takes about 5 hours by the same route. Edgar Thompson can be climbed in 1 long day – about 13/14 hours return, but is much more enjoyable (and achievable) with a bivouac.

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The Nuns Veil, 2,749 metres

  • Gorilla Stream Route, NZ Alpine Grade: 1+
  • Length: 2, or 3 days
  • Total Ascent: approx 2,100 metres
  • Season: November- April

The imposing peak of Nuns Veil lies approximately 10 km north east of Mt Cook Village (as the Kea flies), east of the Main Divide in the Liebig Range. It is a tremendously rewarding climb for those with some crampon and ice axe skills.

We take an early morning boat ride with Glacier Explorers across the terminal lake of Tasman Glacier, then walk approx 4 km over river flats to the mouth of Gorilla stream at around 650 metres.

The rest of the day is spent walking up Gorilla Stream - boulder hopping at first, as you gradually gain altitude to the bivvy site - 6 km and nearly 1,000 metres higher.

We start climbing at around 03:00, at first on moderately angled snow and ice, before reaching the lower Nuns Veil glacier. From this point to the summit, 600 metres above, we rope up for glacier travel.

The last hundred metres before the summit crosses an exposed face with a spectacular view (and drop!) down to the Tasman Glacier. This section may be pitched or short roped, depending on conditions. From here it is a short trip to the summit.

The peak is normally reached mid to late morning. The views are stunning in all directions, with the Mount Cook massif dominating the entire skyline to the west.

The walk out is by the same route. Fit parties may choose to do this on the same day, or you can bivvy for another night.

An optional helicopter drop-off, and/or pickup can be arranged from the bivvy site if required. Any flight costs are in addition to the guiding fee.

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Mount Sealy, 2,627 metres

  • South West Face Route, NZ Alpine Grade: 1+
  • Length Required: 2 or 3 days
  • Total Ascent: approx 1,900 metres
  • Season: November - April

Mount Sealy is the highest point in the Sealy Range. This area is a great location for developing a feel for mountaineering in the Aoraki/Mount Cook region, before venturing on to the big glaciated peaks.

Mount Sealy is usually approached directly from Mt Cook Village by ascending to the Annette Plateau (2,200 metres) via Mount Sebastopol Ridge.

This is a considerable (over 1,300 metres) but a straight-forward ascent, with some scrambling involved. The views down into Sawyer and Blackbirch stream as you gain altitude are impressive.

After 4 or 5 hours you reach a short, steep snow slope that may be pitched up to the Annette Plateau. You can set up camp here, by a gigantic wind-scoop, or cross the plateau and bivvy at Sladden Saddle (2,344 metres). Travel across the Annette Plateau will require roping up for glacier travel.

Up at dawn you begin the final push to the summit, via the South West Face. Sometimes about 150 metres of this slope can involve hard ice, and is likely to be pitched.

Sealy’s summit gives fantastic views across to the big peaks and glaciers of the Main Divide, in particular Mount Sefton and it’s rumbling ice cliffs. Further afield is the head of the Mueller Glacier, Lake Pukaki and the Dobson Valley to the south.

The return to village is by same route, or via Mueller Hut, taking around 6 hours.

An alternative ascent route is via Mueller Hut, staying overnight before the long approach to the climb, or in conjunction with a 2nd night bivvying at Sladden Saddle.

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The Footstool, 2,764 metres

  • Main Divide Route, NZ Alpine Grade: 2+
  • Length Required: 2 days
  • Total Ascent: approx 1,700 metres
  • Season: November- February

Previous alpine climbing, good crampon and axe skills, and a head for exposure are required for climbing The Footstool. The Footstool is a challenging climb requiring competency with various crampon techniques, and use of two ice tools.

The summit of The Footstool sits on the Main Divide, flanked by steep glaciers and looming 1,700 metres above Mt Cook Village. If not for the nearby peak of Mount Sefton somewhat overshadowing it, this would be an even more spectacular peak.

On the first day of the climb we head for an overnight stop at Sefton Bivouac. At 1,660 metres this tiny 3 person hut is the oldest structure in the National Park, and commands a great view of the Tasman Valley and up the Hooker Valley.

From the Hooker Valley floor the vague route leads across stream beds to a zigzagging approach up and over rocky outcrops and snowgrass, before reaching the rocky plateau around the bivvy site. This is a steep climb through tussock and clusters of Mt Cook Lilies, taking around 4 hours with a pack.

An alpine start sees us off again between 3-4 a.m., roped up for glacier travel. You climb on moderately steep, glaciated terrain, before crossing the face of the Tewaewae Glacier, and on to the Eugenie Glacier at around 2,100 metres. Route finding on the upper Eugenie can be tricky through the large crevasses, especially in late summer.

The Main Divide is reached after dawn at about 2,400 metres, with an incredible view of the West Coast, the forests of the Copland Valley, and the Tasman sea.

From this point the ascent to the summit is often exposed, requiring good crampon work. You guide may pitch if conditions warrant. The summit itself is gained about 09:00, and time is taken for a rest, and to enjoy the view.

The descent is by the same route, with a short break at Sefton Bivouac before arriving back at the village mid-afternoon - the end of an 11 to 14 hour day.

An alternative route by is by the East Ridge (grade 3+), accessed just before joining the Eugenie Glacier. This route can be guided for appropriately experienced climbers, but only at a 1:1 ratio.

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