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Across The Main Divide | Details for summer 2011/12
Few mountain journeys rival the adventure of crossing a high-alpine mountain pass. This is especially true of a trip across the Main Divide of New Zealand’s Southern Alps.
The mountain landscape changes dramatically across the north-south watershed that makes up the backbone of the South Island. From your high vantage point on Graham Saddle (2,635 metres) on one side are the high nevé’s of Westland National Park, with breath-taking views of the Tasman Sea and temperate forest. On the other, the steep glaciers and tumbling icefalls leading to braided river valleys, and the dry grasslands of the Mount Cook and Mackenzie Region.
The trip was first made by George Graham (after whom the pass is named) and Tom Fyfe in 1894. These hardy types walked in from the West Coast via the Franz Josef Glacier and Almer Hut (1,700 metres) .
The crossing now
Alpine Guides’ trip involves flying from Mount Cook to Pioneer Hut (2,360 metres) at the head of the Fox Glacier. From there we traverse Explorer Glacier through West Hoe Pass (2,501 metres) and across the Davis Snowfield to Centennial Hut (2,400 metres) at the head of the Franz Josef Glacier.
The Main Divide is crossed through Graham Saddle, descending the Rudolf Glacier, and over-nighting at De la Beche Hut (1,450 metres) before the final walk out.
Along the way your guide will provide instruction where needed, and you will have the opportunity to climb one or two peaks - as time and weather allow.
Experience Required
Crossing the Main Divide, and particularly the trip through Graham Saddle, is not for beginner mountaineers. It is an achievable goal for those with a basic alpine climbing background.
A high level of fitness is required. Some days may involve more than 8 hours on foot carrying all your equipment. Confident cramponing, over sometimes exposed areas is required, along with good abseiling technique and confidence in crossing crevassed terrain.
Minimum experience required:
- High Level of aerobic fitness
- Basic rope/rock climbing skills
- Previous crampon/ice axe experience - at least to the level of the Mountain Experience Course ›
Some instruction will be given to maintain a high safety standard. This will focus on:
- Glacier travel and crevasse rescue
- Abseiling, belay techniques, and anchor systems
- Snow and Ice Climbing
Season: November to mid-February
Crevassing around Graham Saddle increases during late summer and can eventually ‘cut off’ the route. In late summer (after mid-February) an alternate descent route is possible - for appropriately experienced participants - via climbing The Minarets (3,027 metres) and walking down De la Beche Ridge.
We recommend booking your trip to finish by the end of February to have the best chance of success.
Price and Inclusions | Summer 2011/12
Across the Main Divide is an 8-day package
- One or 2 participants per guide
- You can choose the start date
1 person rate: NZ$5,750
2 person rate: NZ$3,495 per person
- The maximum guide to participant ratio is one to 2
- For trips with 3 or more participants at least 2 guides are required
The price includes:
- Guiding fees
- All meals (including snacks and energy bars) ›
- Aircraft access to Pioneer Hut
- Hut fees & local accommodation ›
- Local transport ›
- Some technical equipment ›
Booking for Across the Main Divide
We will provide a guide to work around your travel plans (subject to availability). The first step is to contact us with your proposed dates ›
Please note that we do not have guides standing by waiting for work. "Walk-in" and short-notice enquiries generally cannot be filled. We recommend making reservations well in advance.
For our most popular period (December through February) at least 2 months advance booking is recommended.
Reporting Details
Unless otherwise arranged, the trip will start at 08:30 at Alpine Guides shop in Mount Cook Village, and finish at 17:00 on the last day of your trip. A morning start makes most effective use of time, allowing you to fly into the mountains by lunch time.
Alternatively, we can arrange to start at 13:30, and finish at 12:00 noon on the last day, to better fit in with public bus services ›
With a 13:30 start it is less likely you will fly into the mountains on the first day. Please double-check that you choose the right start time on your booking form.
If you arrive in Aoraki/Mount Cook on the day before your trip begins, your guide will probably not be available. Our office staff will be happy to answer any questions you have. Your guide will look after equipment rental, and other gear requirements at the start of your trip. This takes on average 2 hours.
More information about transport to Mount Cook ›
Trip Organisation
When dealing with the dynamic mountain environment it is not realistic to plan rigidly fixed itineraries. We take a flexible approach and work around the prevailing weather and conditions to get the most from your time available.
At the start of your trip your guide will discuss an outline of the plan and carry out an equipment check. You then head into the mountains at the first possible opportunity. We aim to have you back in Mount Cook Village by late afternoon on the final day.
Itinerary
The following is a proposed, ideal time-line for crossing the Main Divide. Each trip will be different due to changing weather and conditions. "Climbing days" allow us to tackle some of the many peaks enroute, work around the weather, or simply relax and take a day out to enjoy simply being in the mountains.
- Day 1: Meet your guide, sort your gear, fly to Pioneer Hut. Familiarisation with area, practice roping up for glacier travel.
- Day 2: Refresh skills - including crampon footwork and crevasse rescue.
- Day 3: Climbing day.
- Day 4: Travel to Centennial Hut - crossing Explorer Glacier through West Hoe Pass. A typical trip to Centennial is about 5 hours, but may be longer due to snow/route conditions.
- Day 5: Climbing day.
- Day 6: Climbing/skills refresher in preparation to cross Graham Saddle.
- Day 7: Cross Graham Saddle and descend to De la Beche Hut. This is a big day with a 1,200 descent over moderately difficult terrain. Some route-finding and abseiling is required. This section can only be done with good weather.
- Day 8: Walk from De la Beche Hut to a 4WD pick-up at the road end, and a cold beer. This is another long day involving 6-8 hours of travel over glacial moraine.
Aircraft Access & Egress
The cost of air access to Pioneer Hut is built into the price. Where possible we try to combine flights with other climbers to minimise aircraft use, costs, and impact on the mountain environment.
Egress from the mountains
Crossing the Main Divide is designed as a walk-out trip.
In some situations it may be necessary to fly out. This could be due to changing weather, snow conditions, or if your guide is concerned with your fitness or ability. Your guide is the sole arbiter of whether you need to fly out - safety is the most important priority.
Flying out is an extra cost that is not included in the fee. Please budget for this.
The possible flight options:
- Fly back to Mount Cook from Pioneer Hut. This cost can vary from $600 to $1,200, depending on flight logistics on the day. This cost can be reduced through sharing with other parties.
- Fly to Fox Glacier from Pioneer Hut by helicopter ($480) then travel by bus to Wanaka, where you will be picked up by Alpine Guides staff(requires 2 days).
- Walk down to Chancellor Hut and fly to Fox Glacier via helicopter ($250) then travel by bus to Wanaka, where you will be picked up by Alpine Guides staff.
- helicopter pick-up point on the Tasman Glacier white ice below De la Beche Hut. This is after crossing Graeme Saddle. Avoids the final 6 to 8 hour walk out over glacial moraine. Total cost is approx. NZ$750, depending on flight logistics on the day.
Read more about Aircraft use and costs ›
Equipment and Clothing | Across the Main Divide
Download the equipment checklist (.pdf 200 Kb) ›
Please let us know what gear you need to rent - including any equipment supplied free of charge.
Choosing your clothing | Seasonal Variation
Our gear lists cater for all eventualities. Sometimes you may not require everything on the equipment list. Weather and conditions when your trip starts will help determine what is needed.
Temperatures, weather, and snow conditions will vary. The program is designed to work around these changes. Read about Weather & Snow Conditions, Summer and Winter ›
