Roy Smith : IFMGA Guide
Nationality: NZ
First worked with Alpine Guides: 2006
 
Roy was born in Nigeria, but came to NZ at a tender age due to lack of snowy mountains. He was initially into rowing and rugby, but soon became hooked on mountaineering.

He realised Mt Cook was a cool place after a week skiing on the Ball Glacier in the late 60’s. The accommodation at Ball Hut was tops, but the rope tows, cable bindings, and leather ski boots left room for improvement...

Roy's first ascent of Mount Cook was a 13 hour Grand Traverse in his second climbing season (now has 20 successful ascents). His first ascent of Mt Tasman was via the Balfour Face, using classic (almost straight) bamboo tools filed at the last minute to make bigger teeth in the tip. This didn't help to grip the ice, but made them look more intimidating!

He began training as a guide training when the NZMGA was formed in 1979. However, few guiding opportunities in those day led him spending a decade working in all sorts: from construction, oil exploration, snowmaking, and school teaching - as well as climbing in NZ, Europe, and North America.

In 1991 he made a sub 24hr crossing carpark to carpark from Fox Glacier via Graham Saddle to Mt Cook on skis - after being inspired by stories of early guides crossing from Aylmer to Ball Hut overnight to meet clients.

Roy returned to full time guiding in the late 80’s. He has guided over 200 ski descents of the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers. As well as 16 busy NZ summer seasons, he has been to Europe for 9 seasons - guiding ski mountaineering trips, and has worked Chief Guide for a Queenstown heliski company.

When out of the mountains enjoys the beach, rollerblading and the rose garden in the Christchurch Botanical Gardens.

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