NZ Expedition F. A. Q. 's
For Mt Cook , Mt Tasman and Mt Aspiring 'expeditions'
Why 6 days for Mt Cook, 7 days for Tasman and 5 days for Mt Aspiring?
New Zealand has a temperate maritime climate - and the Southern Alps generate a variable and vigorous weather pattern.
This means that short duration trips can possibly be severely affected by bad weather. A longer trip increases the chances of a successful summit.
The length of our trips allows time to get in and out of your venue, and to make a summit attempt.
With the need to book in advance to secure a guide, plus the unpredictable nature of the weather, we believe that a compromise approach of making our trips somewhat longer than in continental areas will give the best chance for success. Our success rate on Aoraki/Mount Cook is over 70%.
Can I book at short notice?
Usually - no. With most of our clients coming to New Zealand from overseas bookings are generally made well in advance. There is a limited number of qualified guides and we face high demand over peak months. This makes advance bookings more or less mandatory.
Why use aircraft access?
There are no cable cars (Teleferique) to high alpine huts in NZ. The approaches from road ends are generally long and often very rugged. Walking into our base huts can use two full days. Flying in will save this time that you can use climbing.
What if I summit early in the trip?
If you've booked for a 5, 6 or 7 day expedition, your guide is obliged to look after you for the entire period. If you make your main objective early, you can stay in the mountains and attempt other peaks as your time allows. If you elect to leave early - no problem, but there will not be a refund.
Why do Alpine Guides guide the Linda Glacier route on Aoraki/Mount Cook?
The Linda Glacier route and its relative hazards are described in the Aoraki/Mount Cook expedition notes. Around 80% of all ascents (and 90% of descents), both guided and recreational, are via this route.
Yes, there is some objective hazard and we will stop guiding this route if at times the hazard increases, or if later in the season the route forces climbers too close to the more undesirable zones. We are almost always the first company to stop guiding the Linda when (from late January onwards) the crevasses may become questionable and the hazard increases.
Other guiding companies offer a point of differentiation with guided ascents trips up the Hooker Valley. What is not normally mentioned is that you only get to climb the low or middle peak from the Hooker.
Arguably the objective hazard from rock and icefall, the hazard getting to Empress Hut, and then to Porters Col is at least of the same level as that in the Linda.
You cannot fly into Empress hut, and the weather has to be good to get there, so the first two days of fine weather is taken up in carrying heavy packs. Those two days might be the climbing days you need for the summit attempt.
Alpine Guides: guiding and courses
Winter Guiding & Courses ››
From ice climbing and ski mountaineering to avalanche courses and ski touring.
Summer Courses and Guiding ››
Introductory to advanced climbing courses, guided ascents and expeditions on NZ's highest peaks.
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