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Mount Tasman / Rarakiora

Mount Tasman - viewed from the west

Mt Tasman - 3497 metres

Sitting alongside Mt Cook, Mount Tasman (Rarakiora) at 3497 metres is the second highest peak in New Zealand. Sculptured by the icy winds and weather of the Southern Alps it is a classic mountain peak, and an ice climber’s dream.

Every ridge to Mount Tasman's summit is a sinuous ice climb that requires excellent technique. The climb is more technical than an ascent of Aoraki/Mount Cook via the Linda Glacier route. It is a serious and committing climb.

A 7-day "expedition"

We treat the our guided climb of Mt Tasman as an expedition, allowing 7 days for the attempt. This provides time to work around weather and conditions. We fly all parties into the mountains to maximise potential climbing time and chances of making the summit.

 

Suzanne calling base from summit of Mt Tasman Suzanne on Mt Tasman, North Shoulder behind. Photo by Keith Scott

Season: November - April

Scheduling and booking

No fixed departure dates on Mt Tasman. Instead you can choose the start dates of the trip to suit your travel plans (subject to guide availability). Advance bookings are essential.

 

Routes Guided:

We guide 2 routes on Mount Tasman. The route will depend on your climbing experience, and on conditions at the time. Both the guided routes are exposed and require solid crampon technique.

Via Silberhorn ››

Based from Plateau Hut on the Grand Plateau. The descent is by the same route. Total time is usually 15 to 18 hours. See route map ››

Via North Shoulder ››

Based at Pioneer Hut at the head of the Fox Glacier. The descent is by the same route. Total time is typically 15 to 18 hours. See route map ››

Experience required

  • Previous alpine climbing experience on moderate/technical terrain
  • Proven competence with ice axe and crampons
  • High level of fitness
  • Check our Technical Mountaineering Course as a guide to the minimum level of experience required for a guided ascent

 

Pricing & Details: Summer 2009/10

NZ$5250 per person

Guiding ratio: Strictly 1:1

Pricing includes:

All meals and snacks, aircraft access, accommodation, local transport, use of a range of technical gear, Alpine Guides Technical Manual.

Check guide availability ››

 

Why 7 days? Why a 1:1 Ratio? Read our FAQ on Mount Tasman ››



Summer Guiding & Expeditions Options

Across The Main Divide | Ascents Program | Classic Alpine Rock Ascents | Local Heroes | Mount Aspiring | Mount Cook | Mount Tasman | Private Instruction & Guiding | Tasman Glacier Grand Expedition

See all Summer Course Options ››

Summer courses and guiding

Summer 2009/10 ››

Introductory to advanced climbing courses, guided ascents and expeditions on NZ's highest peaks.

More info ››

 

Winter courses and guiding

Winter Guiding & Courses ››

From ice climbing and ski mountaineering to avalanche courses and ski touring.

More info ››

 

 

 

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