Gear Guide - Clothing For Mountaineering

Choose your mountain wardrobe around the time of year you will visit. Remember, mountain huts are not heated. Temperatures are colder at night, even during summer. If your trip involves camping out, go for the warmest possible combination of clothing.

Winter Gear (July - October)

Guidelines

  • Warmer down (500+ loft) and synthetic jackets

  • Medium to heavy-grade thermals and socks

  • Warm, insulated gloves

  • 4-season sleeping bags (rated to approx -12°C)

  • Avoid using drinking bladders and hoses during winter - they are prone to freeze even when insulated.

Summer Gear (November - April)

There is the variability of temperatures through summer. Be prepared for cool, to cold temperatures during storms and at night.

Guidelines

  • 3-season sleeping bags (rated to approx -5°C)

  • 400-500 loft down jackets or synthetic insulating jackets

  • Lightweight to mid-weight thermals and socks

  • UV Protection is Vital

Through December, January, and February especially bring "cooling" garments that will reflect UV. For example; “glacier shirts” (light colours/quick drying), legionnaire hats, scarves, and neck gaiters (e.g. "Buff").

Layering

The layered clothing approach (thermal - mid layer - shell layer) is best for mountaineering in the Southern Alps. NZ’s temperate maritime climate delivers rapid changes in weather, and temperature - often inside the space of a day. Quickly adjusting clothing layers to suit weather and activity levels is essential. Avoid cotton whenever possible, especially for layers close to or next to the skin. Cotton absorbs moisture rapidly and dries slowly.

  • Your base/thermal layer should Keep you warm, and just as importantly, wick moisture from perspiration away from the skin. Polyester based fabrics dry fast and have good wicking qualities. They also last longer, and do not attract body odour like polypropylene ("polypro") fabrics.

    Modern ultra-fine Merino wool thermals are more popular. Merino will keep you warm even if damp. However, merino does not dry quickly and will absorb a lot of moisture (up to 5 times its own weight). We recommend polyester-based fabrics for highly aerobic activities.

    Regular Underwear

    Bring two changes of standard underwear. We recommend polyester, or even super-fine merino underwear to avoid cold clammy cotton undies!

    Thermal Underwear

    Bring along:

    • 2 long-sleeved tops

    • One pair of "long johns"

    • For winter trips use heavier-grade thermals or 2 complete sets.

    Glacier Shirt

    A glacier shirt is a highly recommended "old school" approach to staying cool on hot afternoons. Choose a lightweight quick-drying fabric, in a light colour, to help reflect snow glare. Long sleeves and a collar helps protect from sunburn. An old polyester business shirt will do, but where possible a shirt with an ultraviolet protection factor is recommended.

  • Your mid-layer should provide warmth, and to some extent protection from wind and moisture. Most mountain huts in NZ are not heated. Even during summer warm clothing for cool night temperatures is important.

    Tops

    Wear a warm layer, as a jersey over your thermals. Choose 100-200 weight micro-polar fleece or heavier-grade Merino garments. Alternatives are wind shells, and lightweight micro polyester multi-sport jackets, with a microfleece lining. Wind shells have advantages over standard polar fleece by cutting wind chill.

    Softshell Jackets offer excellent wind protection, breathability, resilience, and range of movement. These are worn over your fleece jersey or thermals. Different weights of softshells are available to suit the season of your trip.

    Climbing Pants

    Your “climbing trousers” should be comfortable and able to fit over your thermal layer if necessary. Choose a lightweight, quick-drying synthetic fabric. Make sure they allow for easy movement, whether loose or tighter fitting.

    Trekking pants over thermal long johns are okay during winter. These should be a light colour to minimise UV absorption. The classic Kiwi summer tramping garb is a pair of shorts, worn over striped polypro long johns - ugly but utilitarian.

    Soft-shell fabrics are the most versatile option. They allow a great range of movement, and wind resistance, and are quick drying. With soft-shell pants, you can do away with long johns when in milder temperatures, but most people will bring long johns regardless.

    In winter, or during the early season you can use fleece trousers/waterproof over-trouser or a soft shell/long johns combination.

  • Polar fleece

    Old-school fleece is durable, insulating, and quick drying. During summer a 200-300 weight polar fleece jacket is ideal for extra warmth.

    Choose a jacket with full-length front zip and zip pockets. Wear under your hard-shell jacket in windy conditions

    Cons: Fleece is relatively bulky and does not compress well. Offers little resistance to wind.

    Down Insulated Jackets

    A down jacket is a good choice for warmth. This will pack down into a compact bundle. For winter trips a mid-weight (600+ loft) down jacket is recommended. During summer a fill rating of 400 - 500 loft is sufficient. During January and February for hut-based trips a down jacket is optional (but recommended).

    Cons: Down offers no thermal protection when wet. Choosing a jacket with a water-resistant outer shell is better for damp conditions.

    Synthetic Insulated Jackets

    “Synthetic down” insulated jackets use man-made fibres like Primaloft®. The advantage of synthetic jackets is insulation, without the "puff" feel. Synthetic fill is cheaper, and will also keep you warm even when in damp environments.

    Cons: May be bulkier and slightly heavier than down alternatives.

  • Waterproof/breathable fabrics are ideal for mountaineering. They work on a vapour pressure gradient through the fabric, aided by warm body temperatures and cold air temperatures.

    Gore-tex® is still the benchmark product, although there are many alternatives. You will usually wear your shell layer only in poor, or cold/windy conditions.

    Hard Shell Jacket

    Your jacket should fit comfortably over your base and mid-layer garments, with room to move freely.

    Mountaineering jackets come to just below the waist, allowing easy access to your climbing harness.

    Tramping/bush-walking jackets that come below the waist are not ideal, but acceptable. They can be tucked under your harness.

    Choose a jacket with:

    • Full-length front zip

    • A full-sized hood - capable of wearing over a helmet

    • Zipper flaps

    • Storm cuffs

    Over-trousers

    These must be fully waterproof. Full-length zippers are ideal as they allow the over-trousers to be put on, or removed, over your boots and crampons. Pants with half-length leg zippers will suffice if you already own a pair.

    Salopettes (bib-fronted trousers) add extra warmth for winter mountain missions. However, the standard trouser style is lighter, cooler, and better for summer mountaineering.

Accessories

Hats, gloves, and socks, though small items, should not be forgotten when you pack for your trip. They will keep you warm, dry, and covered from the intense New Zealand UV solar radiation.

  • Peaked Cap

    Worn for protection from the sun, and glare off the snow. Legionnaire-style hats are ideal as they protect the back of the neck and ears. A baseball cap and a bandanna/scarf/neck gaiter combination are a good alternatives.

    Warm Hat & Balaclavas

    Use quick-drying materials e.g. polar fleece/polypro. Your hat/beanie should extend over your ears, and be snug enough to fit under your helmet. Balaclavas or close-fitting hats under the helmet are ideal for extra insulation during cold weather/winter trips.

  • There are many possible combinations of gloves that suit different conditions and your preferences. Every guide will have their own unbeatable combination. You will carry at least 2 pairs of different gloves with you at all times.

    Avoid mittens. These are used at high altitudes, especially on fixed rope systems, but are not suitable for most NZ situations, unless used just as a backup for additional warmth.

  • Choose wool, or a synthetic/wool blend (e.g. "Coolmax®", for moisture wicking).

    Option 1: bring 3 pairs of thicker socks. You wear one pair at a time, so one pair can be drying out as you wear another set.

    Option 2: wear both a thin “liner” pair and a thicker pair of socks. If you use this combination, then bring just 2 thin pairs and 2 heavy pairs.

  • Should be knee length and made of nylon, canvas, Gore-tex® (or similar). Front velcro closures make them easier to get on and off. Your gaiters should be securely fitting under the boot, so they don’t ride up.

    Purchasing tip - it pays to try on gaiters while wearing your climbing boots.