Mt Edgar Thompson
Guided Ascent
Difficulty
Duration
2.5 Days
Season
October to April
Gearlist
PRICE FROM $1,645 NZD
Mount Edgar Thompson 2,379 Metres
This peak is a fantastic introduction to climbing in the Aoraki area. It also makes a perfect follow-up climb after an instruction course like our Mountain Experience Course or Alpine Skills Course.
The vertical ascent is more than 1,600 meters - a challenge to your fitness. We normally run the climb over 2 days with a bivouac, although it can be done in one big day, around 12 hours return.
Edgar Thompson guiding package
Booking a Climb
This trip is on request. Firstly, please contact us with your proposed dates. All bookings are subject to guide availability.
Your guiding package includes:
Guiding fees for 2.5 days
Alpine Guides Technical Manual
All meals and snacks - lunch from day one to lunch on day 3
National Park fees
Local transport
Free use of a range of technical equipment
Local accommodation for any nights necessary during the trip
A weather contingency day
Check-in at Alpine Guides office in Mount Cook Village.
Please read our booking Terms and Conditions.
Prices, From May 2024
| Group size | Price |
|---|---|
| 1 person | $2,725 |
| 2 people | $1,645 per person |
Prices are in NZ$ and include GST.
Experience
Mount Edgar is a moderately-challenging climb requiring competency with various crampon techniques and the use of two ice tools. Conditions may require some pitched climbing and a degree of exposure.
We expect guests to have mountaineering experience similar to the completion of our Mountain Experience Course or Alpine Skills Course
A background in general mountaineering with solid crampon mileage
Ability to manage snow anchors and belays stations
route description
Climbing Season: October to April
East Ridge Route
We guide the Main Divide Route, NZ Alpine Grade 2.
The climb begins at Hoophorn Stream, at 800 metres. The route wanders through scrub and tussock, crossing boulder streams, and gaining height quickly. Three hours later you arrive at a saddle (the “Worry Line”) at 1,500 metres, before gaining the East Ridge.
The ridge is a steep, but enjoyable hike, over boulders, scree, and alpine meadow. Kea are common companions, and the odd Thar or Chamois can make an appearance on a crag above. You climb the ridge for another hour to your bivvy site.
Up before dawn, the ascent continues for another one and a half hours before gaining the south face - becoming rockier and involving more scrambling. Crampon, ice axe, and good footwork are required for the moderately steep ascent of the South Face. Your guide may decide to pitch here if conditions warrant.
Above the face, the final 100 metres to the summit is an airy ridge walk with the views becoming more spectacular all the way to the top.
The descent back to the road end takes about 5 hours by the same route. Edgar Thompson can be climbed in 1 long day – about 13/14 hours return but is a much more enjoyable (and achievable) mission with a bivouac.
Itinerary
Every Edgar Thompson trip is unique, due to weather and mountain conditions. When dealing with a dynamic mountain environment, flexibility is required.
Day One - 13:30 start
Meet your guide, discuss plans, check and prepare gear. Take dinner and prepare for the morning ascent.
Day Two
Climb to your bivouac spot and set up camp for the night.
Day Three
Your summit attempt and return to Mount Cook Village
A weather contingency day is included at no cost to you. This allows us to roll back the start date of the trip by a full day to give more weather flexibility.
A 25% deposit is required to secure your booking
