Mount Aspiring Skills And Summit Course
Mount Aspiring (3,033 metres) is 180 km southwest of Aoraki Mount Cook, in Mount Aspiring National Park. It is the highest peak in the region, rising 2,500 meters from the Matukituki Valley floor.
Known in te reo Māori as Tititea, the "glistening one", Mt Aspiring is often called the "Matterhorn of the Southern Alps", and when viewed from the west looks particularly impressive. It is a "classic" horned peak, standing high above the others in the region.
Learnings & Outcomes
The Mt Aspiring Skills and Summit is ideal:
For fit and enthusiastic outdoors people (not necessarily with any mountaineering skills) who want to learn enough to safely attempt a guided climb of one of New Zealand's most dramatic peaks.
There is a lot to pack into a week! The course combines several days of intense instruction in alpine climbing skills, and a training climb. before taking the opportunity to push for the summit.
The course content will be tailored to your experience. The wider your base skillset, the greater your chance of a successful summit. Previous mountaineering or rock climbing experience is not necessary but will be a great advantage if you have it.
What you will learn
What equipment to bring and how to use it
Knots and hitches for mountaineering
Snow and ice climbing
Abseiling, belay techniques, and rope systems
Snow, ice, and rock anchors
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue
Basic avalanche hazard evaluation
Outcomes - what comes next?
The Mt Aspiring Course course works best as more of a "one-off" mountaineering experience.
If you are more interested in developing skills to climb independently in the longer term, we recommend starting out with the more comprehensive Alpine Skills Course (ASC) or a Private Instruction option.
Schedule and Specifics
Price: NZ$9,995
What’s Included
Professional Mountain Guide(s)
Helicopter access to Bevan Col
All meals, including snacks and energy bars from day one to 5 pm day 7
Hut fees, and Wanaka Accommodation as required (inside trip dates)
Department of Conservation fees
Free use of a range of technical gear
Alpine Guides Technical Manual
NOT Included:
Cost of optional flight out
Meeting your guide in Wanaka
Lake Wanaka and access to the Mount Aspiring region is 2 hours drive south of our base at Mount Cook. We will arrange a meeting place and time with your guide. Usually, this is at our summer office, or your accommodation in Wanaka. We will advise close to the time.
Important: if you need to rent or borrow Alpine Guides equipment please let us know in advance. Your guide will bring the equipment you need.
Accommodation options in Wanaka.
Your guide will help organise your equipment at the start of your trip. This takes an average up to 2 hours. After an outline of the trip and equipment check, you fly into the mountains at the first possible opportunity.
ExperiEnce
A high level of aerobic fitness and tramping/hiking/bushwalking experience is expected. You will carry a 12-15 kg backpack for 8-10 hours.
You also need to be good on your feet, with excellent proprioception. A positive attitude and keenness to learn are must-haves!
Itinerary
The actual structure of the course may vary as we work around the weather and conditions at the time, to give you the best chance of summiting Mt Aspiring. This itinerary is a “best scenario” situation and we reserve the right to modify this around weather and conditions
Day 1
You'll meet your guide in Wanaka. After sorting and checking gear we drive to the road end and fly into the mountains, usually in the early afternoon. The walk from the landing site to Colin Todd hut takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, roped for glacier travel.
Days 2 and 3 - Skills
You'll cover basic snow craft, cramponing skills, and self-arrest, climb on alpine rock and steep snow and ice. At least a half day will focus on the crevasse rescue technique.
Day 4 - Training Climb
You will attempt a peak such as Mount Bevan or the Rolling Pin. If your guide is happy with your ability, you may go directly to attempt Mt Aspiring.
Day 5 - Summit Day
Day 6 - start walking out - or Summit day option 2
You'll either use this as an alternative summit option or start the 2-day walk out to the road-end, either via French Ridge or Bevan Col, depending on conditions. This is a long and demanding trip. You need to be fit and able to carry a moderate-heavy backpack through sometimes steep, untracked terrain for 8–10 hours after a long summit day.
Day 7 - Exit
Complete the walk out to the road end and finish the course.
Alternatively, you can fly out (weather permitting). The flight out is an additional cost but will help maximize your time in the mountains.
Route description
North West Ridge Route
Maximum guide to participant ratio: 1 to 1
NZ Alpine Grade: 2+
Season: October to April
There is no easy way to the summit. The standard North West Ridge route is a long day of climbing 1,220 vertical metres over 10-12 hours - including travel across glaciated terrain and pitched climbing. The climb takes 10 to 12 hours return from Colin Todd Hut (1,800 metres).
We climb either via the “Ramp” in the earlier parts of the season (October through December). The Ramp involves sustained moderately-angled pitched climbing with two ice tools.
The Ramp Route meets with the full North West Ridge about halfway along the ascent. From there, it is technically straightforward but exposed climbing for the last 300 vertical metres to the summit. Fantastic views are had from this point in space; to Aoraki in the north, and glaciated valleys to the west, and beyond to the Tasman Sea on a clear day.
The upper part of the mountain is climbed via the North West Ridge. This involves moderate snow and ice up to the summit. Your guide will usually short-rope you up on this, depending on conditions.
The descent is via the same route. It requires concentration and good crampon technique.
Full North West Ridge - Late Season Variation
The full North West Ridge is a classic route that is normally climbed later in the season (normally January onwards) after the rock is clean from snow. This route follows the long NW Ridge, requiring a number of pitches and airy exposed traverses around rock pinnacles before meeting the top of the Ramp.
Aircraft And HUts
Access to Colin Todd Hut
Colin Todd Hut is located at the base of the North West ridge. It is a strenuous 1.5 day walk or a short helicopter flight. Flying in makes the best use of your available good weather.
By using helicopter access you can maximise your energy on the mountain, and the time spent climbing. Fresh food can also be taken in. After flying to Bevan Col there is an 1.5 hour walk to Colin Todd Hut, across the Bonar Glacier.
Camping may sometimes be required due to the limited bed capacity at Colin Todd Hut. Alpine Guides will provide tents and other camping gear, if required.
Egress from the mountains
It is possible to fly out from Bevan Col, but the usual practice, if you have the time, is to walk out. This can either be via the Bevan Col route (a very long day’s walk and climb over difficult terrain) or to the Quarter Deck Glacier and then down French Ridge to French Ridge Hut.
The French Ridge route can take up to 1.5 to 2 days and must be undertaken within the time frame of your trip. Your guide will decide which route is most suitable for the weather, snow conditions, and your fitness at the time.
Helicopter cost from Bevan Col is approx. NZ$1,200 if chartering the helicopter yourself. If other climbing parties are flying in or flying out at the same time, this cost may be significantly reduced.
A 25% deposit is required to secure your booking
More trip ideas
Alpine Skills Course
Private Instruction Course
Private Guiding
