Malte Brun Expedition

Alpine Guides expedition on to Malte Brun (3,199 metres) offers a chance to climb one of the gems of the Southern Alps. Malte's warm red sandstone faces provide some of the best alpine rock mountaineering in the Mount Cook area.

Malte Brun Guided Package

The 6-day package gives time to fly in, high on the Tasman Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site. The trip involves at least 2 nights camping out, so you need to be fit, and keen to bivouac away from the comforts of a hut.

After leaving the glaciers below, the climb involves exposed alpine rock ribs and couloirs (up to grade AU15), and the classic Malte Brun cheval.

Climbing Season and Route

Climbing on the Malte Brun massif is best when the faces are clean of snow. This makes Malte a perfect late-season climb, when the other big glaciated peaks are coming out of condition. We recommend January onwards (but conditions may be suitable earlier).

Most commonly we guide variations on the North and West Ridges, but can look at alternatives depending on conditions, and your experience.

Experience required:

  • High level of aerobic fitness

  • Previous basic snow and ice mountaineering

  • Able to competently second rock to AU15 in mountaineering boots

Why 6 days? Why a 1:1 Ratio?

Read the NZ Expedition FAQ