If you’re short on time but big on ambition, Mt Edgar Thompson (2,379 m) is hard to beat. It’s a classic Aoraki/Mount Cook mountaineering challenge that packs a massive variety of terrain into a compact timeframe.
This is a moderately challenging peak suited for climbers with good fitness and solid crampon technique. It’s also a perfect "next step" for those who have recently completed our Mountain Experience or Alpine Skills courses, who are looking to put their new skills to work on a major peak.
Trip Logistics
We guide the East RIdge Route, NZ Alpine Grade 2
Starting from Hoophorn Stream (800m), the route gains height quickly through sub-alpine scrub and boulder streams.
We typically bivouac at the 1,500m saddle, a wild spot often shared with inquisitive Kea and the occasional Himalayan Tahr on the bluffs above.
From the saddle, enjoy a steep scramble over boulders and alpine meadows before moving onto the South Face. Here, solid crampon and ice axe technique are essential; your guide may pitch out sections, depending on conditions. The descent follows the same route back to the road end, usually taking 5–7 hours of focused travel.
Mount Edgar Thompson requires competency with various crampon techniques and the use of two ice tools at times.
We expect a background in general mountaineering with solid crampon mileage- similar to the completion of an Mountain Experience Course or Alpine Skills Course.
Conditions may require pitched climbing and a degree of exposure. The ability to manage snow anchors and belay stations is expected.
Booking a Climb
This trip is on request. Please contact us with your proposed dates.
All bookings are subject to guide availability
Weather Contingency
A weather "contingency day" is included at no cost to you. This allows us to delay the start date of the trip by a full day, to give more flexibility around the weather. We will contact you to discuss details if this is needed.
