5 Days | The "Matterhorn of the South" | 3,033m
Rising a staggering 2,500 metres from the Matukituki Valley floor, Mt Aspiring (Tititea) is the undisputed crown of the southern skyline. It’s a classic, high-alpine objective that demands respect, solid fitness, and a genuine love for big mountain days.
Aspiring isn’t a "walk-up." To stand on the summit of the "Glistening One," you’ll need to be comfortable moving across a mix of snow, rock, and ice. Whether we’re navigating glaciated terrain or managing belays on the upper mountains, this 5-day expedition is designed for climbers with some previous alpine experience looking to step up to a true New Zealand icon.
The Routes
The North West Ridge: It’s a classic, flow to the summit that offers incredible exposure and world-class views. To ensure the highest safety margins and moving efficiency, we guide this at a strict 1:1 ratio (or 2:2 for pairs).
The South West Ridge: For experienced guests looking for a more sustained challenge, this is a technical alternative that really tests your mountain craft.
Based 180km southwest of Aoraki/Mt Cook, Aspiring feels like a different world. We’ll meet you in Wanaka, gear up, and head into the heart of the National Park. From there, it’s all about timing the weather window and finding your rhythm on one of the finest ridges in the Southern Alps.
The North West Ridge is the most commonly guided route
NZ Alpine Grade: 2+
Season: October to April
The climb takes 10 to 12 hours return, from Colin Todd Hut (1,220 metres).
The lower section of the mountain can be climbed by “The Ramp” - pitched climbing up 40° snow; or up the Shipowner Ridge on mixed snow and rock (more rock as the season progresses).
The upper part of the mountain is climbed via the North West Ridge. This involves moderate snow and ice up to the summit. Your guide will usually short-rope you up on this, depending on conditions. The descent is via the same route. It requires concentration and good crampon technique.
The South West Ridge
NZ Alpine Grade: 3+
Season: October to January
Regarded as one of New Zealand’s classic ascents, the SW ridge is a challenging climbing mission for more experienced alpinists.
Access to the ridge is via the Bonar Glacier. We normally bivouac high on the glacier (at about 2,200 metres) before the climb.
At a point, about 150 metres below the summit, the South West Ridge runs into a steep couloir. This exposed section is climbed with 3 pitches on 55-60° snow and ice, before joining with the NW ridge and ice cap.
Because of snow conditions in the couloir, the route is in best condition earlier in the season (before the end of December). The descent route is normally by the NW ridge, to Colin Todd hut. Total time is normally 12-14 hours.
Walk-in and Out Option
If you prefer to forgo the helicopter flight, you can book a 7-day Mt Aspiring option, walking in and out from Colin Todd Hut. Contact us for details.
North West Ridge Route
For the Northwest Ridge Route, we can guide participants with alpine climbing skills, approximately at the level of our Alpine Skills Course (ASC).
A high level of fitness is also required.
Prerequisites - North West Ridge at a 1:1 ratio:
South West Ridge Route
On the South West Ridge, we will guide experienced climbers, those who have climbing experience similar to our Technical Mountaineering Course (TMC).
Prerequisites - South West Ridge at 1:1 ratio:
Meeting your guide at Wanaka
Lake Wanaka and access to the Mount Aspiring region is 2 hours drive South of our base at Mount Cook. We will arrange a meeting place and time with your guide. Usually at your accommodation.
Your guide will help organise and check your equipment at the start of your trip. This takes on average up to 2 hours. After an review of weather and safety, you fly into the mountains at the first possible opportunity.
Rental and Borrowed Equipment
If you need to rent or borrow Alpine Guides equipment, let us know in advance.Your guide will bring the equipment you need.
Special Booking Conditions
These conditions are in addition to our standard booking terms and conditions.
Colin Todd Hut
Colin Todd is located at the base of the North West ridge. It is a strenuous 1.5-day walk from the Matukituki Valley. Flying in makes best use of available good weather in a short 5-day window.
Helicopter access can maximise your energy on the mountain, and the time available for climbing. Fresh food can also be taken in, to add to the enjoyment of the expedition.
After flying to Bevan Col, there is a 1.5-hour walk to Colin Todd Hut across the Bonar Glacier. Camping may sometimes be required due to the limited bed capacity at Colin Todd Hut. Alpine Guides will provide tents and other camping gear, if required.
Exiting the mountains
It is possible to fly out from Bevan Col, but the usual practice is to walk out. This can either be via the Bevan Col route (a very long day’s walk and climb over difficult terrain) or to the Quarter Deck Glacier and then down French Ridge to French Ridge Hut.
Walking out
After the descent into the Matukituki Valley floor, the walk to the vehicle pickup point at Raspberry Flat takes around 5 hours. This is a pleasant hike down a river valley on a grass track - although with a sizeable pack on your back! You may want to bring a comfortable pair of lightweight running shoes for this section of the trip.
